Today I left work at 530 and was in Asbury Park by 620, in the water by 635.
not a bad commute time. when I got there I could hear the waves howling.
6 foot waves and the last wave of the set between 7 and 8 foot. got about 5 sweet last in 1 nice backside. breaking a frames and side ramps. left handed walls in big a frames.
Out the back I had a nice backside where pump the brakes as well. I pump the brakes little too hard and try to punch to the back way when I was closing out.
I didn't go on this 1 wave because there was people in front of me and this dude next to me said why didn't you go and I didn't trust myself next time I will .
Great day. Oh it was solo
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